Showing posts with label Asia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Asia. Show all posts

Bunderful Shanghai (Part I)

As a self-proclaimed travel warrior, I wasn't worried about getting culture shock in China. Surely by now the abundant stamps in my passport and numerous currencies in my wallet would act like a shield against the physiological perils of Chinese cultural nuances... My diabolical plan was foiled though, as my super traveling powers were disabled by locally manufactured kryptonite (I mean come on, they produce everything.) So although I wholeheartedly endorse people to travel, I would advise caution to those of you that hyperventilate when the Canadians cook their bacon differently or when the Germans use a green-woman traffic light.

My expedition to the middle kingdom started in Shanghai (meaning above the sea), a bustling metropolis on the country's eastern seaboard. Once a sleepy fishing village, this economic powerhouse has surpassed Shenzhen and Guangzhou as China's crown jewel. Shamefully, I didn't know much about the city before my trip, hell I couldn't even place Shanghai on a map! Which means there's a high probability you can't either... hence the map below. (My apologies to those of you who majored in Sino-cartography or grew up flying to Hongkong on the weekends, you probably know Chinese geography like I know the contents of my purse).

World's largest country by population and Doufu consumption.

Since I flew into Shanghai during the early morning hours, I was able to view the city from the skies. It was an endless patchwork of old communist housing, red-brick roofs and modern apartment buildings, connected by long meandering rivers of concrete. Even from the air, Shanghai looked like a series of contradictions, a clash of civilizations evolving so quickly that it manifested itself on the physical landscape.

This was evident once we touched down, as new-world Chinese roads met old-world Chinese traffic, complete with multiple collisions and angry red-faced mainlanders. A three wheeled tractor-car (is the only way I could describe it) had flipped over, spilling its contents across all four lanes of traffic. I haven't seen many trucks dump their loads before, but seeing the tons of Doufu strewn across the road was hilarious. My driver muttered something under his breath, and I could imagine him saying "great, you hold up traffic AND spoiled dinner."

Once in Pudong, I was overwhelmed by the density of high rises and sky scrapers - Shanghai made downtown Singapore look like American farmland in the 1940's (think Grapes of Wrath). The city was littered with a flock of cranes, working in unison to expand the already crowded horizon with dozens of additional mega structures. I watched them stack steel girders like Lego blocks, raise pillars and clear debris... Wow, I thought, they wanted these buildings built yesterday.

After settling into the hotel, I made plans for a sumptuous dinner on The Bund. Situated on the banks of the Huangpu River, the historically international area houses some of the best views and finest dining in all of Shanghai. I've included a excerpt about the origins of The Bund below, courtesy of Wikipedia (picture included).
The word "Bund" comes from the Urdu word band, meaning an embankment, levee or dam. "Bund" is pronounced to rhyme with "fund". The term was brought to India (where it came to be pronounced as "bund") by either the Mughals in at the beginning of the 16th century. There are many "bands" to be found in Baghdad, even today. There are numerous sites in India, China, and Japan which are called "bunds". However, "The Bund" as a proper noun almost invariably refers to this stretch of embanked riverfront in Shanghai.
The Bund was home to many international banks and embassies.

As night fell and the temperature dropped, I found myself marveling at the neon-lights lining the city like Vegas during Christmas. I had inhabited the city for less than 12 hours and already felt transformed by its size, its endless identical streets and the breakneck speed at which it was expanding. The uniqueness of Shanghai was most poetically captured by a traditional Chinese junk I saw traveling down the length of the Bund - carrying a 150 foot digital billboard.


I went to bed that night with my head spinning, overwhelmed by experiencing the familiar coupled with the unexpected... which is what traveling is all about. What else did Shanghai have to offer? Check out Part II of "Bunderful Shanghai" to follow next week!



And after all, you're my wonder wall...

"This man, with lime and rough-cast, doth present
Wall, that vile Wall which did these lovers sunder;
and through Wall's chink, poor souls, they are content
To whisper, at the which let no man wonder."

A Midsummer Night's Dream, W. Shakespeare

Looking out over the Northern Pass, you can see the hills fold into each other before disappearing into the late-afternoon mist. Coupled with the setting sun and the bursts of crimson and burnt-orange foliage, you can't help but notice the subtle progression of the seasons. The autumn wind picks up, whips my hair around my face and coaxes an involuntary shiver that travels up the base of my spine. I pull my hood up, shove my hands in my pockets and avoid touching the cold, cracked stone - which after a thousand years still seems impenetrable, formidable even.

Standing by a gatehouse on the wall, I could imagine the battalions of imperial guards in their heavy armor, guarding the vast empire against the Mongol hoards... But as magnificent as Chángchéng is (translated is simply long wall), it's no match for today's invasion of Japanese tourists, armed with their matching tour-group hats and Canon digital SLR's. Welcome to the Great Wall of China, complete with its own Starbucks, naturally.

According to the dictionary, a wall is "an architectural partition with a height and length greater than its thickness; used to divide or enclose an area or to support another structure." Great examples of historically important walls include The Great Wall of China (which I'm showcasing in this post), the Berlin Wall, the Wailing Wall and most recently, the West Bank Wall. But the hardest (or maybe trickiest) walls to penetrate I've found have been those psychological partitions, one of them charmingly described by a friend of mine:

"When it comes to our emotions, men are effective at building walls,
but then we screw up by leaving the front door open."

Those walls we build in the windmills of our minds aren't exclusively constructed to keep people out though, they also function to keep us trapped within a certain mindset (think about the Berlin Wall.) These mental fortresses are built on the bricks of idle contentment, fear and self-doubt, and we become afraid of what lies outside the calm confines of our everyday lives. It's a wall that keeps us from getting to know our neighbors, our co-workers, our siblings, our lovers - ourselves. It discourages us from traveling, from following our dreams, from taking risks and from rising above the static. For me, I can honestly say that these types of walls (the ones I build around myself) are the most destructive and limiting - because most things worth doing are found just beyond my reach; just beyond those walls.

It's my hope that we continue to build bridges instead of walls, all the while helping each other discover those roads leading to richer, more fulfilling lives. I also hope you get to experience this amazing piece of historical architecture first hand and marvel at the way the Great Wall of China snakes across the landscape like a sleeping dragon.

Creative Destruction


Great Wall of China, PRC

Again, I am guilty. Some of you have been contacting me these past few weeks, concerned that I haven’t been writing. It humbles me that you’ve enjoyed these small windows into my life, and to you I must tip my hat.

My lack of frequent correspondence, I could argue, is attributed to my reverence for fully savoring my experiences these past few months… after all, indulging in the joys of eating phad thai in Bangkok or climbing the Great Wall in Beijing requires me to curb my internet addiction. But truthfully, I’m just lazy. I’ve had ample time to write, to pour my thoughts into a thick soup of wise and witty banter I’ve convinced myself you’ve become accustomed to reading word for word. (In my case, occasional brilliance and habitual delusion go hand in hand.) But I haven’t, and I’m sorry.

When my pen is forced, my experiences lose their beauty, their courage, their romance. I’ve been trying to purvey my stories in a methodical and linear manner, which takes the passion out of my woven words, so I’m going for a different style now - one that brings out the Hemmingway in me, the poetry of Whitman or the visual imagery of Rockwell.

I left the Forbidden City a few days ago for the Emerald one, which concludes the most amazing chapter of my life so far. Family obligations called me back, but it’s allowing me to gather all my experiences and formulate my next move. I feel as though I’m on the brink of something big, and for the first time ever, I am unafraid. This started as a year’s odyssey, but now I know it’s only the beginning of a life-long obsession. Life is the real adventure, and my posts will only get more interesting.

I’ll be writing from the fantastic coffee shop down my street in North Seattle. Come visit if you’re in town!

My love, my respect and adoration,
Riani

Elephants and buffalo and dragonflies ... Chang Mai!

After spending a glorious week in Bali with my wonderful sisters, I ended up heading up northwest to the Kingdom of Siam. I've been here for two weeks already, and I'm enjoying the local culture (massages and Thai food) mixed in with some good old fashion international fun (dinner of 18 people a few nights ago only had one double up for nationality).



Although Bangkok has been great, I've been feeling a little naked without my camera (which was lost in the incident in Kuala Lumpur). So I'm starting with my trip to Chang Mai, where I was able to borrow a friend's beat up camera.

Chang Mai is situated in the northwest corner of Thailand, as illustrated in the map.
I came to Thailand to visit an old friend from school, a fijian-kiwi (New Zealand) that has an infectious laugh and an easy smile. Dion and I decided to head up to Chang Mai for a much needed holiday (well, more for him than me). We ended up at the Four Seasons Chang Mai, an oasis on the outskirts of town with mountain views and lush vegatation.

See those orange umbrellas? That's just the swimming pool area! I actually got a tan in the two days I sat under those bright umbrellas, overlooking the (fake) rice fields. I was thinking about how irritated the farmers must have been, working in the heat and blinding sun, while the hotel guests sunned themselves in near-nakedness. Haha!

There were two resident water buffalo at the hotel, and one of them was Albino! What a life, live at a hotel, look pretty and munch on free food... I want one!

Each of the suites had these great little terra cotta animals hanging out at the doorstep. This little piggy and I became very good friends!

While we were there, I thought it would be a good idea to get a little excerize. The hotel provided complimentary bicylces that you could use to roam the countryside. I had the brillant idea of going out for a 10k ride in the searing heat, panting up the hill to see a waterfall...

Chang Mai has a lot of "monkey schools," which are more like tourist traps than anything else, along with the butterfly and orchid farms. As hot as it was, I think Bangkok would have been hotter, since Chang Mai is a little above sea level.






After our bike ride, I collapsed on the cool tile - trying to get my temperature back to normal. The pool felt UNBELIEVEBLE after that though!



There are actually two pools, an upper floor for families and a lower "adults only" pool, both of which overlook the ride fields and the rest of the hotel grounds. In the evenings, there are huge pots that are lit, so it looks like a scene out of Survivor: Chang Mai.


Hanging out at the lower pool, which has direct sun and great views of the mountains. (Don't worry, I wore sunscreen, plus see how white I am?)


Here I am hanging out with one of the locals. I think Dion said we were cousins.

I had a fantastic time up in the mountains of Thailand, as I'm sure the photos represent. I'll report more from Bangkok soon, I promise. Over and out!

Bali Hai Birthday!

Crazy jumping girls on Kuta Beach, Bali

A quarter century is a long time, especially when I remember being a young girl with big brown eyes and unruly hair, thinking to myself that one day I would be 16 and that was SO OLD. But after all the adventures, the heart breaks, the triumphs and the never-ending blind corners, I find myself embarking on a new chapter in my life.

I turn 25 this month and unlike most people who bemoan their eventual decline into maturity, I wholly welcome my graduation into the 25-40 check box. I'm old enough now to rent a car, date guys in their 30's (when did that happen!), or negotiate terms of employment... but most importantly, I feel more comfortable in my own skin.

Dining at Warung Made's in Kuta Beach, Bali

What makes my birthday so special? Well, unlike most of you, I share my birthday with a woman of the same genetic DNA. Standing on the dark sandy beach of Bali on the night of our birthday, we had a candid conversation about the past 25 years. How much we've grown, how optimistic we were about the future - how damn lucky we were.

Danielle and I on our birthday, before she smooshed cake in my face.

Although the Balinese backdrop was spectacular and the warm weather delightful, it was my sisters presence that made my birthday a special one. We danced in the sunset, we drank ES Kelapa Mudah (coconut milk) and walked down Kuta beach... I haven't seen either of them for 9 months, and those familiar faces always bring me joy and encourage to live my life to the fullest. Nothing like having two beautiful sisters to keep you motivated!

Shopping together in Kuta Beach.

I find that my sisters and I have matured into very different personalities, all unique with our own individual strengths. Danielle is able to reach out to people within moments of meeting them, while Estelle shows very fierce loyalty to those she cares about. I think in the years and months that we've been apart, it's the laughter and the sibling camaraderie that I hold dearest to my heart (and miss the most).

Out to dinner with the girls at Ku De Ta.

Out for Banana Honey Pancakes at Warung Made's.

So what have I learned in my 25 years in life? Here's a very short list...

1. I learned that life is short, and it's no dress rehearsal. Go do the things you love and dream about, trust me, you won't regret it.

2. I learned that surrounding myself with people that support me, that push me to be better, that make me laugh, smile and think has made my life a fantastic experience. Seek out these people, the ones that bring out the best in you...

3. I learned that doing things that scare you show you what you're made of. Get rid of the things that distract you from who you really are... And be honest with yourself.

4. I learned that I have great friends, and the more I keep in touch, the richer my life is. Call your friends and let them know you're thinking of them.

5. I learned to be more open, to go with the flow, to listen to the opportunities abound.


So anyway, it's been a fantastic birthday and I throughly enjoyed myself. Danielle at one point wanted to rent a ship and go gallivanting like Pirates around Puget Sound, until we realized I would not be state-side for our birthday. (Can you imagine? Everyone dressed as pirates?!) Although that would have been a lot of fun, I'm glad that our birthday was so intimate, simple and oh-so-special.

Happy birthday Danielle!



My Singapore Adventures with Danielle

It's always fun to return to your childhood stomping grounds, especially with those you stomped with. I sat on the front porch for a couple hours waiting for Danielle arrive from Seattle, enjoying the breeze and (finally) a sense of peace. After the initial hugs and jumping around (because we hadn't seen each other in about 9 months) we decided to head out for good ole' Teh Tarik and Roti Paratah. This is at 1:30 in the morning, God bless Asia and its late-night culture.

Below is a photo that best captures Danielle's delight in being "home" and eating our comfort food. You can't hide sheer joy like this!


Anyway, today we got caught up at lunch and ended up missing our flight to Bali. I don't remember the last time I missed a flight, but we were able to bat our eyes at the agents who put us on the next one. For free. We're now at the airport, waiting to board - although we still don't know where we're going to stay. At least we're consistent with the last-minute details?

Alright, this was a quick post.. Just wanted everyone to know I'm alright, in great company, and finally feel like I'm back on track!

Much love from Singapore,
Riani

Fun sightings in Jakarta

Back at the begining of my trip, I did a post about the strange things I saw in London. Since arriving in Jakarta a few days ago, I've been bombarded with much fodder to photograph. Here's some of the great things this city has to offer.

At one of the local malls, the escalator was a giant red shoe...


While bowling, Boomgard and I saw THE COOLEST Hello Kitty bowling ball ever.


Walking around Kemang (which is a bule-infested suburb of south Jakarta) we saw this new restaurant that just opened. I love the purple brain fountain in the front, and the mustard color-scheme followed by the tetris logo. So cool.



On a shopping trip to Kemchicks (which is the popular white-people store in Kemang) John Boomgard and I happened across this sign at the deli. John (who is actually from Virgina) and I found this extra funny. The way we figure, Australia must now be a new county within the great, orginial 13-state of Virginia, in the United States of America.

Take me home, country road...

7:44 PM Posted by javagold 0 comments

So after three months of travelling, I finally made it "home" to Jakarta, Indonesia. Coming back here is always bitter sweet for me, since so many painful memories from the past comes flooding back to me, but (thank God) intermingled with the memories of great friends and amazing adventures.

Since the invention of Facebook, (if you're not on it, GET ON IT) I've been able to catch up with long-lost friends from high school (the Jakarta International School). We've been able to mobilize and organize mini-reunions all over the place, including some in Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, Bali, London and in Vegas in 2008. I came back to Jakarta this time around for a small reunion which takes place at Bakmie GM, an awesome fast-food noodle joint we frequented in our adolescence.

Being back here is hard, and I can tell because there are many people, places and events that I seem to have blocked from my memory. It's a dark place to revisit, but I think it's important - because so much of my past has molded me into the woman I am today. (Yeah, this is going to be a heavy post, deal with it.)

I was back here about a year and a half ago, but wasn't able to deal with the buried emotions - everything seemed different, but more importantly, there was no one around who could really share in that lost innocence. This time around though, I'm in Jakarta with the people who I grew up with. In our minds, we can reconstruct Garuda (a great pool hall that I used to visit after school with Kris Saunders) before it burned down, talk about Bayu (a crap club I used to go to during 9th, yes I said 9th, grade) before it shut down and about our lives after the riots, which I know transformed our lives forever.

There is something about growing up here, something about our school - something about our friendships that I cannot, for the life of me, ever explain to people. It's this common denominator that binds third culture kids like Karen Chuan, Ben Nolan, Amanda Drosten, Joel Staples, John Boomgard, Danielle Townshend and Kris Saunders etc together.

For example, John Boomgard came to pick me up at the airport here in Jakarta. I haven't seen this kid since we were 14 years old, when I was taller and bigger than him - and we feel strangely close even though we never hung out in high school, or kept in touch through the years. But we've been running around making a ruckus like old friends, with little but a common heritage to bind us together.

I guess when it comes down to it, these people are home to me. They are sancutaries for spontaneous hugs without fear of rejection or explanation, temples honoring our unique individuality and champions for our collective differences. In a sense, they are my family.

Alright, enough with the deep, gushy crap. There are guys that read my blog and I don't want to lose my (small but devoted) group of readers. I promised, hot almost naked women in another post... really. (no really, I went to a lingerie brand launch party.)

Here are a few awesome pictures I took, and cute stories to accompany them - it'll take your mind off the battle that rages internally in Riani's head and heart.

Selamat Datang! John and I "playing bowling" if you translate the Indonesian term literally into English. John was five-foot short the last time I saw him, but now he's a healthy 6 feet tall and heavy enough to kick my ass... So I'll be nice to him.



At my fave restaurant, Cafe Tamani in Kemang. As a child, my father never let me blow bubbles in my drinks. So now, as an adult, I do it all the time. Every chance I get, until the bubbles pour over the sides and onto the table. Take that dad! (Memo to me, when I have kids, I'm letting them blow bubbles - so they can get it out of their system before they mature. If they mature.)

The view of the kampung from John's apartment. That river rose 7-8 feet during the flash floods that hit Jakarta in January. Jakarta is a sprawling city with many back alleys and confusing streets. The concept of City Planning was evidently never popular here... it would give the Palace of Knosos a run for its money. (Quick history lesson, the palace, which is located in Crete is one of the sources of the term Labariynth.)



John and I went for sushi, and I managed to dump a full mug of hot green tea all over myself. Boomgard would like to point out, that it looked like I peed my pants. ("You DID pee your pants, Riani" he says, over my shoulder.) When the hot liquid finished spilling, we looked at each other and said, "damn, if it were the states, we could sue."


Some chick named Carla put a Perfume scent sample on the sushi conveyor-belt thingy... We responded, and then she wished us well. I loved random things like this! =)



Anyway, that's really it for now. I have a lot of posts coming up in the next couple of days, so please stay tuned!



Day Trip to Batu Caves

Take a few Aussies and a Yank, a extremely hot day, an old Hindu temple and a HUGE golden statue and you'll get our day trip to the Batu Caves in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

The day started out innocently enough. I had my morning mango and was looking forward to bumming it at the hotel pool, but the boys had a different idea. We took the LRT train to the end of the line and then caught a bus with "Batu Caves" in the window.

Silly us. Apparently, the Batu Caves is also an area of town... Which the bus driver (who KNEW we were going to the temple) didn't happen to mention. He kicked us to the curb a MILE away from the actual caves and we ended up walking there in the hot sun. I felt like I was going to melt.

Walking there, we saw the mountain-side and a small golden statue soaring into the sky. But you don't realize that the "small" statue of Lord Murugan is actually 50 meters high (that's over 160 feet for you non-metric Americans out there.) That's HUGE.

It seemed like no matter what angle I took the photo from, the statue always looked so beautiful, regal and insanely cool. Quite frankly, the best part of the Batu Cave temple, is the statue outside.

There were about 300 steps up to the where the caves actually were... We ended up taking breaks on the way up - especially since the sun was beating down on us. Here's a great picture of Joel, Zuh and Alan resting on the steps, which were painted red and white.


I tried to walk in the shade, but my trusty umbrella did come in handy. Apparently, the Aussies call them brolly's, which does make sense. I thought I would learn a lot of Malay while in KL, but honestly, I've picked up a lot of slang from down under. For example, Joel had called me when we were trying to make plans... "I'll give you a bell when we're sorted." I paused for a moment, and checked with Karen. "He meant, I'll call you when we figure out what we're doing, right?" She laughed and nodded. If we're speaking the same language, why can't I understand them?

There were a lot of Monks at the temple... But this guy was cool. I think the picture speaks for itself. Monk + Video Camera = Riani smiling to herself.

Look at all those stairs, and the size of the statue. This picture was taken from the entrance to the compound, which was at least a 4 minute walk.

Zouh and I posing for Joel's camera. I don't know whose more comfortable with the camera. I mean, check out the look on his face. Zouh, you're a closet photo whore!

So if you're making it out here to Malaysia, the Batu Caves makes for a good afternoon trip. Check out the whole album below, and let me know what you think. Again, I'm sorry I'm so behind on posting. I don't have Internet access at the house I'm staying at, (shock, horror, gasp, I know) so it's going to be few and far between for awhile.

Batu Caves

Getting Hitched in the Sky

It's amazing to me that people my age are starting to get married... And some of them are already having babies. Although I'm in no rush, it's always a great feeling when you get to witness two people in love giving themselves to each other. James and Gayatri are two wonderful people who I had the honor to watch tie the knot - and it was great making new friends while catching up with old ones!

Here are some wonderful random shots from the wedding that I thought I would share with you!

Gayatri's rings... They were gorgeous, and James did a great job picking them out. James told me that after he bought the rings, he kept them in his pocket for a month, waiting for the perfect time to ask her (since planned engagements have been "done to death", he wanted to leave it to chance.) Finally, after watching a movie (Monster in Law, interestingly enough) Gayatri said to James at dinner, "You could NEVER surprise me." In which case, he took out the ring, open the box and put it on the table and said "How about now?"


Joel the best man and the smiling bride... Gayatri had the most beautiful dress ever, and the whole wedding had hints of lavender. Joel, you really do clean up well... You look a million times better than in your stupid shorts. (Please refer to my last post for some history on the subject.)


Joel's mom Anne and I at the hotel lobby waiting to go up to the wedding. I hadn't seen her for about 10 years, when we lived in Indonesia. Anne used to feed me, hence me liking her so much. You can see where Joel gets his dashing looks!


The wedding was held at KL tower, which had awesome views. Those extremely tall buildings to the left are the Petronas Towers, which used to be the tallest in the world. (FYI they were the cool towers in the movie Entrapment.


Here's a sign leading guests to their wedding and after party...

Here's Joel dancing with James' niece, Susie. It had to be the cutest thing I have ever seen.

Durga, the Bride's sister and I during the reception. Durga looks just like her mother, and is an insanely good looking girl. In fact, the whole wedding party was chock-full of tall handsome men and gorgeous Asian woman. Fun times for all!

Gayatri's grandparents. Look at the serious bling her grandmother was wearing! Apparently, she didn't dress to the nines either, but how beautiful was her Sari?

Here is Zou and I at the reception. Check out the windows behind us, it was floor-to-ceiling with amazing views of Kuala Lumpur. And in case you guys were wondering, I bought that dress for 20 pounds in Camden Town in London... It was the last one they had, and one clearance. Score! (Ask Alex Boyce and he'll tell you I used to prance around his apartment in it, even ironing and doing dishes in it, since I loved the dress so much.)

Alan and I at the reception. Boy drinks more water than anyone I have ever met, and has inspired me to drink more. (4 cups of tea later, I'm constantly going to the bathroom.)



AFTER PARTY


So after the wedding, a large group of us went partying... Leaving the bride and the groom and two of the photographers in their hotel suite. (What on earth was that about. Hee hee hee...) All I remember is that I left with a pack of ridiculously beautiful woman, and strutting down heritage row with Beauty Queens and MTV VJ's. We had a BLAST.

May Wan and Kanchana Nanda Kumar cosying up to the camera.


Me and my girls, hanging out at Bar Savanh. I loved the greens behind us, made for a great backdrop.

Kanchana and I hanging out, before heading to the dance floor to boogey!


Alan and I hanging out.... I'm glad that it didn't rain, it really was a perfect night!



Can't remember where we were... But at the end of the night, we all ended up piling up in one car, FIVE of us in the back seat. Insane....


In the end, the thing I remembered most about the wedding was the great mixture of people. Friends and family flew from around the globe to attend the wedding, and between the lunches, dinners, afternoons at the pool and shopping trips before and after the wedding, I met a lot of fantastic people I now am proud to call me friends.

Thank you to both Gayatri and James, for setting a fantastic venue for embracing diversity. Being of mixed race myself, it really touched me to see you guys tie the knot.