Savor the Moment.

While in college, I encountered a clique-like group of students that shared the same course load as I did. I envied their close-knit conversations and inside-jokes, and plotted to overthrow their elite republic. I didn't get the chance however, as one of the girls sneakily became a friend - and I cannot hate a Thai-American girl no matter how hard I try. In the end, we coexisted harmoniously through our college years and even keep in touch through e-mail, face book and even phone calls.

On member of the group, (a cynical and dry humored guy named Jason) ended up moving to a not-so-small city in northern China called Shijiazhuang, the Capital of Heibei Province. In our conversations about my world travels (Jason had urged me to quit my job and bolt) we managed to make plans for a trip to visit him...

Hence my magical journey to what I considered was the real China.


Shijiazhung is a two hour train ride northish of Beijing and isn't frequented by that many tourists or foreigners. I was the only "white" person in the train station and felt completely isolated, unable to communicate with anyone or effectively deal with the locals staring at me (maybe I was a fire-breathing dragon?). Once in Shijiazhuang, my mind froze in an all-consuming panic. I'm in a strange city, completely dependent on others to take care of me. If Jason isn't at the train station, I'll surely be dead in a Chinese ditch by the end of the week. Thankfully, Jason was at the station to retrieve me, sporting corduroy jeans, Steelers Jersey and a skateboard in hand. If he came with peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, that would have been picture perfect.

Having a local host changed my whole perspective, and having that little added sense of security allowed me to enjoy the nuances of real China. For example, did you know there is a HUGE Muslim population in Heibei province? My first night there, we ended up eating satay-style at a local Muslim joint - complete with spiced tea and a plateful of spicy lamb curry. YUM.

When to comes to international landmarks, I'm sure certain buildings come to mind. Structures such as the Eiffel Tower in Paris evokes romantic emotions, Big Ben in London portrays the rise and fall of the British empire and even the Petronas towers in Kuala Lumpur serves to push Malaysia into the new millennium. But when it comes to emerging markets, Shanghai's Pearl Tower on the Bund most strikingly exemplifies the burgeoning developing-world economy. The tower looks like a futuristic roman candle, complete with revolving lights and tall concrete support beams. At night, the tower has a starring role in the Vegas-by-water light show that attracts locals and tourists alike to dine on the banks of the Bund. I've heard that people either hate or love the tower, and I myself give it two thumbs up. Come on. It's pink.


Although Shanghai was very overwhelming in its size, like any big city, you could venture to certain districts for personalized and intimate experiences. the French Concession is one such neighborhood, mostly noted for its wonderful architecture and sumptuous food.



There's a lot of red used in traditional Chinese culture, from their traditional dress to the paper lanterns strung up on the roof lines of the city. I love their use of the color, as it brings vibrancy and warmth to the otherwise rigid surroundings. Gold is also a major color, as it represents wealth and prosperity.

Overall, I think what amazed me most about Shanghai is how globalization is affecting this Asian tiger. Gone are the days of rickshaws and push-bikes, which were replaced by Audi A4's and motorized bicycles. Traditional eateries are now hawking their wares along side global brands such as Mc Donalds and KFC, while the infiltration of Nike, Ermenegildo Zegna and Juicy Couture inspired the creation of local luxury brands such as Shanghai Tang.

As China continues to grow and prosper, I'll be interested to see its ever expanding influence on the world. Although they are investing heavily in hardware (infrastructure) it's their burgeoning community of entrepreneurs I'm more interested in. From what little I've seen, it's a billion people now free to seek their fortunes. Watch out!

As a self-proclaimed travel warrior, I wasn't worried about getting culture shock in China. Surely by now the abundant stamps in my passport and numerous currencies in my wallet would act like a shield against the physiological perils of Chinese cultural nuances... My diabolical plan was foiled though, as my super traveling powers were disabled by locally manufactured kryptonite (I mean come on, they produce everything.) So although I wholeheartedly endorse people to travel, I would advise caution to those of you that hyperventilate when the Canadians cook their bacon differently or when the Germans use a green-woman traffic light.

My expedition to the middle kingdom started in Shanghai (meaning above the sea), a bustling metropolis on the country's eastern seaboard. Once a sleepy fishing village, this economic powerhouse has surpassed Shenzhen and Guangzhou as China's crown jewel. Shamefully, I didn't know much about the city before my trip, hell I couldn't even place Shanghai on a map! Which means there's a high probability you can't either... hence the map below. (My apologies to those of you who majored in Sino-cartography or grew up flying to Hongkong on the weekends, you probably know Chinese geography like I know the contents of my purse).


Since I flew into Shanghai during the early morning hours, I was able to view the city from the skies. It was an endless patchwork of old communist housing, red-brick roofs and modern apartment buildings, connected by long meandering rivers of concrete. Even from the air, Shanghai looked like a series of contradictions, a clash of civilizations evolving so quickly that it manifested itself on the physical landscape.

This was evident once we touched down, as new-world Chinese roads met old-world Chinese traffic, complete with multiple collisions and angry red-faced mainlanders. A three wheeled tractor-car (is the only way I could describe it) had flipped over, spilling its contents across all four lanes of traffic. I haven't seen many trucks dump their loads before, but seeing the tons of Doufu strewn across the road was hilarious. My driver muttered something under his breath, and I could imagine him saying "great, you hold up traffic AND spoiled dinner."

Once in Pudong, I was overwhelmed by the density of high rises and sky scrapers - Shanghai made downtown Singapore look like American farmland in the 1940's (think Grapes of Wrath). The city was littered with a flock of cranes, working in unison to expand the already crowded horizon with dozens of additional mega structures. I watched them stack steel girders like Lego blocks, raise pillars and clear debris... Wow, I thought, they wanted these buildings built yesterday.

After settling into the hotel, I made plans for a sumptuous dinner on The Bund. Situated on the banks of the Huangpu River, the historically international area houses some of the best views and finest dining in all of Shanghai. I've included a excerpt about the origins of The Bund below, courtesy of Wikipedia (picture included).

The word "Bund" comes from the Urdu word band, meaning an embankment, levee or dam. "Bund" is pronounced to rhyme with "fund". The term was brought to India (where it came to be pronounced as "bund") by either the Mughals in at the beginning of the 16th century. There are many "bands" to be found in Baghdad, even today. There are numerous sites in India, China, and Japan which are called "bunds". However, "The Bund" as a proper noun almost invariably refers to this stretch of embanked riverfront in Shanghai.

As night fell and the temperature dropped, I found myself marveling at the neon-lights lining the city like Vegas during Christmas. I had inhabited the city for less than 12 hours and already felt transformed by its size, its endless identical streets and the breakneck speed at which it was expanding. The uniqueness of Shanghai was most poetically captured by a traditional Chinese junk I saw traveling down the length of the Bund - carrying a 150 foot digital billboard.


I went to bed that night with my head spinning, overwhelmed by experiencing the familiar coupled with the unexpected... which is what traveling is all about. What else did Shanghai have to offer? Check out Part II of "Bunderful Shanghai" to follow next week!

Those walls we build in the windmills of our minds aren't exclusively constructed to keep people out though, they also function to keep us trapped within a certain mindset (think about the Berlin Wall.) These mental fortresses are built on the bricks of idle contentment, fear and self-doubt, and we become afraid of what lies outside the calm confines of our everyday lives. It's a wall that keeps us from getting to know our neighbors, our co-workers, our siblings, our lovers - ourselves. It discourages us from traveling, from following our dreams, from taking risks and from rising above the static. For me, I can honestly say that these types of walls (the ones I build around myself) are the most destructive and limiting - because most things worth doing are found just beyond my reach; just beyond those walls.

It's my hope that we continue to build bridges instead of walls, all the while helping each other discover those roads leading to richer, more fulfilling lives. I also hope you get to experience this amazing piece of historical architecture first hand and marvel at the way the Great Wall of China snakes across the landscape like a sleeping dragon.

Again, I am guilty. Some of you have been contacting me these past few weeks, concerned that I haven’t been writing. It humbles me that you’ve enjoyed these small windows into my life, and to you I must tip my hat.

My lack of frequent correspondence, I could argue, is attributed to my reverence for fully savoring my experiences these past few months… after all, indulging in the joys of eating phad thai in Bangkok or climbing the Great Wall in Beijing requires me to curb my internet addiction. But truthfully, I’m just lazy. I’ve had ample time to write, to pour my thoughts into a thick soup of wise and witty banter I’ve convinced myself you’ve become accustomed to reading word for word. (In my case, occasional brilliance and habitual delusion go hand in hand.) But I haven’t, and I’m sorry.

When my pen is forced, my experiences lose their beauty, their courage, their romance. I’ve been trying to purvey my stories in a methodical and linear manner, which takes the passion out of my woven words, so I’m going for a different style now - one that brings out the Hemmingway in me, the poetry of Whitman or the visual imagery of Rockwell.

I left the Forbidden City a few days ago for the Emerald one, which concludes the most amazing chapter of my life so far. Family obligations called me back, but it’s allowing me to gather all my experiences and formulate my next move. I feel as though I’m on the brink of something big, and for the first time ever, I am unafraid. This started as a year’s odyssey, but now I know it’s only the beginning of a life-long obsession. Life is the real adventure, and my posts will only get more interesting.

I’ll be writing from the fantastic coffee shop down my street in North Seattle. Come visit if you’re in town!

My love, my respect and adoration,
Riani

After spending a glorious week in Bali with my wonderful sisters, I ended up heading up northwest to the Kingdom of Siam. I've been here for two weeks already, and I'm enjoying the local culture (massages and Thai food) mixed in with some good old fashion international fun (dinner of 18 people a few nights ago only had one double up for nationality).



Although Bangkok has been great, I've been feeling a little naked without my camera (which was lost in the incident in Kuala Lumpur). So I'm starting with my trip to Chang Mai, where I was able to borrow a friend's beat up camera.

There were two resident water buffalo at the hotel, and one of them was Albino! What a life, live at a hotel, look pretty and munch on free food... I want one!

Each of the suites had these great little terra cotta animals hanging out at the doorstep. This little piggy and I became very good friends!

While we were there, I thought it would be a good idea to get a little excerize. The hotel provided complimentary bicylces that you could use to roam the countryside. I had the brillant idea of going out for a 10k ride in the searing heat, panting up the hill to see a waterfall...

Chang Mai has a lot of "monkey schools," which are more like tourist traps than anything else, along with the butterfly and orchid farms. As hot as it was, I think Bangkok would have been hotter, since Chang Mai is a little above sea level.

After our bike ride, I collapsed on the cool tile - trying to get my temperature back to normal. The pool felt UNBELIEVEBLE after that though!

There are actually two pools, an upper floor for families and a lower "adults only" pool, both of which overlook the ride fields and the rest of the hotel grounds. In the evenings, there are huge pots that are lit, so it looks like a scene out of Survivor: Chang Mai.

Hanging out at the lower pool, which has direct sun and great views of the mountains. (Don't worry, I wore sunscreen, plus see how white I am?)

Here I am hanging out with one of the locals. I think Dion said we were cousins.

I had a fantastic time up in the mountains of Thailand, as I'm sure the photos represent. I'll report more from Bangkok soon, I promise. Over and out!

A quarter century is a long time, especially when I remember being a young girl with big brown eyes and unruly hair, thinking to myself that one day I would be 16 and that was SO OLD. But after all the adventures, the heart breaks, the triumphs and the never-ending blind corners, I find myself embarking on a new chapter in my life.

I turn 25 this month and unlike most people who bemoan their eventual decline into maturity, I wholly welcome my graduation into the 25-40 check box. I'm old enough now to rent a car, date guys in their 30's (when did that happen!), or negotiate terms of employment... but most importantly, I feel more comfortable in my own skin.


What makes my birthday so special? Well, unlike most of you, I share my birthday with a woman of the same genetic DNA. Standing on the dark sandy beach of Bali on the night of our birthday, we had a candid conversation about the past 25 years. How much we've grown, how optimistic we were about the future - how damn lucky we were.


Although the Balinese backdrop was spectacular and the warm weather delightful, it was my sisters presence that made my birthday a special one. We danced in the sunset, we drank ES Kelapa Mudah (coconut milk) and walked down Kuta beach... I haven't seen either of them for 9 months, and those familiar faces always bring me joy and encourage to live my life to the fullest. Nothing like having two beautiful sisters to keep you motivated!


I find that my sisters and I have matured into very different personalities, all unique with our own individual strengths. Danielle is able to reach out to people within moments of meeting them, while Estelle shows very fierce loyalty to those she cares about. I think in the years and months that we've been apart, it's the laughter and the sibling camaraderie that I hold dearest to my heart (and miss the most).

So I'm in Bali now, with little time to be online... But I checked my e-mail and my God there were a lot of beautiful birthday wishes. Here are a few from Facebook, while I also got other in my mailbox.

This is more of a record for me to remember how fortunate I am to have such a large pool of fine friends. I'll be posting about my birthday in the next couple of days,

But for now,
Hello from Bali!

Love,
Riani