Bunderful Shanghai (Part II)

When to comes to international landmarks, I'm sure certain buildings come to mind. Structures such as the Eiffel Tower in Paris evokes romantic emotions, Big Ben in London portrays the rise and fall of the British empire and even the Petronas towers in Kuala Lumpur serves to push Malaysia into the new millennium. But when it comes to emerging markets, Shanghai's Pearl Tower on the Bund most strikingly exemplifies the burgeoning developing-world economy. The tower looks like a futuristic roman candle, complete with revolving lights and tall concrete support beams. At night, the tower has a starring role in the Vegas-by-water light show that attracts locals and tourists alike to dine on the banks of the Bund. I've heard that people either hate or love the tower, and I myself give it two thumbs up. Come on. It's pink.


Although Shanghai was very overwhelming in its size, like any big city, you could venture to certain districts for personalized and intimate experiences. the French Concession is one such neighborhood, mostly noted for its wonderful architecture and sumptuous food.

Here I am going out for dinner!

Now, when it comes to traveling I do have some advice: find people to explore with. I was fortunate enough to have a great group of friends stationed all around the world, so finding a high school buddy "in the neighborhood" was pretty easy for me. For those of you traveling in different circles, stay at youth hostels and pair up with other adventurers for a fun time out. I truly believe that sharing experiences with others increases the richness of your travels. As a guideline, I usually try to hang out with three different people in a new city - since it gives me three different perspectives on the same space.

While in Shanghai, I was able to spend time with David Yang, a former JIS Dragon himself who currently lives in Hongkong. David took me to the "touristy" areas of the city, including some of the most popular temples and to the zigzag bridge.


David and I after a 7-year hiatus. He used to sneak my sister and I to a Chinese restaurant at the Mulia Hotel in Jakarta to eat during Ramadan. Bad Muslims!


Here's the famous Zig-Zag bridge, complete with its own Starbucks in the distance.

There's a lot of red used in traditional Chinese culture, from their traditional dress to the paper lanterns strung up on the roof lines of the city. I love their use of the color, as it brings vibrancy and warmth to the otherwise rigid surroundings. Gold is also a major color, as it represents wealth and prosperity.

Overall, I think what amazed me most about Shanghai is how globalization is affecting this Asian tiger. Gone are the days of rickshaws and push-bikes, which were replaced by Audi A4's and motorized bicycles. Traditional eateries are now hawking their wares along side global brands such as Mc Donalds and KFC, while the infiltration of Nike, Ermenegildo Zegna and Juicy Couture inspired the creation of local luxury brands such as Shanghai Tang.

As China continues to grow and prosper, I'll be interested to see its ever expanding influence on the world. Although they are investing heavily in hardware (infrastructure) it's their burgeoning community of entrepreneurs I'm more interested in. From what little I've seen, it's a billion people now free to seek their fortunes. Watch out!

Bunderful Shanghai (Part I)

As a self-proclaimed travel warrior, I wasn't worried about getting culture shock in China. Surely by now the abundant stamps in my passport and numerous currencies in my wallet would act like a shield against the physiological perils of Chinese cultural nuances... My diabolical plan was foiled though, as my super traveling powers were disabled by locally manufactured kryptonite (I mean come on, they produce everything.) So although I wholeheartedly endorse people to travel, I would advise caution to those of you that hyperventilate when the Canadians cook their bacon differently or when the Germans use a green-woman traffic light.

My expedition to the middle kingdom started in Shanghai (meaning above the sea), a bustling metropolis on the country's eastern seaboard. Once a sleepy fishing village, this economic powerhouse has surpassed Shenzhen and Guangzhou as China's crown jewel. Shamefully, I didn't know much about the city before my trip, hell I couldn't even place Shanghai on a map! Which means there's a high probability you can't either... hence the map below. (My apologies to those of you who majored in Sino-cartography or grew up flying to Hongkong on the weekends, you probably know Chinese geography like I know the contents of my purse).

World's largest country by population and Doufu consumption.

Since I flew into Shanghai during the early morning hours, I was able to view the city from the skies. It was an endless patchwork of old communist housing, red-brick roofs and modern apartment buildings, connected by long meandering rivers of concrete. Even from the air, Shanghai looked like a series of contradictions, a clash of civilizations evolving so quickly that it manifested itself on the physical landscape.

This was evident once we touched down, as new-world Chinese roads met old-world Chinese traffic, complete with multiple collisions and angry red-faced mainlanders. A three wheeled tractor-car (is the only way I could describe it) had flipped over, spilling its contents across all four lanes of traffic. I haven't seen many trucks dump their loads before, but seeing the tons of Doufu strewn across the road was hilarious. My driver muttered something under his breath, and I could imagine him saying "great, you hold up traffic AND spoiled dinner."

Once in Pudong, I was overwhelmed by the density of high rises and sky scrapers - Shanghai made downtown Singapore look like American farmland in the 1940's (think Grapes of Wrath). The city was littered with a flock of cranes, working in unison to expand the already crowded horizon with dozens of additional mega structures. I watched them stack steel girders like Lego blocks, raise pillars and clear debris... Wow, I thought, they wanted these buildings built yesterday.

After settling into the hotel, I made plans for a sumptuous dinner on The Bund. Situated on the banks of the Huangpu River, the historically international area houses some of the best views and finest dining in all of Shanghai. I've included a excerpt about the origins of The Bund below, courtesy of Wikipedia (picture included).
The word "Bund" comes from the Urdu word band, meaning an embankment, levee or dam. "Bund" is pronounced to rhyme with "fund". The term was brought to India (where it came to be pronounced as "bund") by either the Mughals in at the beginning of the 16th century. There are many "bands" to be found in Baghdad, even today. There are numerous sites in India, China, and Japan which are called "bunds". However, "The Bund" as a proper noun almost invariably refers to this stretch of embanked riverfront in Shanghai.
The Bund was home to many international banks and embassies.

As night fell and the temperature dropped, I found myself marveling at the neon-lights lining the city like Vegas during Christmas. I had inhabited the city for less than 12 hours and already felt transformed by its size, its endless identical streets and the breakneck speed at which it was expanding. The uniqueness of Shanghai was most poetically captured by a traditional Chinese junk I saw traveling down the length of the Bund - carrying a 150 foot digital billboard.


I went to bed that night with my head spinning, overwhelmed by experiencing the familiar coupled with the unexpected... which is what traveling is all about. What else did Shanghai have to offer? Check out Part II of "Bunderful Shanghai" to follow next week!



And after all, you're my wonder wall...

"This man, with lime and rough-cast, doth present
Wall, that vile Wall which did these lovers sunder;
and through Wall's chink, poor souls, they are content
To whisper, at the which let no man wonder."

A Midsummer Night's Dream, W. Shakespeare

Looking out over the Northern Pass, you can see the hills fold into each other before disappearing into the late-afternoon mist. Coupled with the setting sun and the bursts of crimson and burnt-orange foliage, you can't help but notice the subtle progression of the seasons. The autumn wind picks up, whips my hair around my face and coaxes an involuntary shiver that travels up the base of my spine. I pull my hood up, shove my hands in my pockets and avoid touching the cold, cracked stone - which after a thousand years still seems impenetrable, formidable even.

Standing by a gatehouse on the wall, I could imagine the battalions of imperial guards in their heavy armor, guarding the vast empire against the Mongol hoards... But as magnificent as Chángchéng is (translated is simply long wall), it's no match for today's invasion of Japanese tourists, armed with their matching tour-group hats and Canon digital SLR's. Welcome to the Great Wall of China, complete with its own Starbucks, naturally.

According to the dictionary, a wall is "an architectural partition with a height and length greater than its thickness; used to divide or enclose an area or to support another structure." Great examples of historically important walls include The Great Wall of China (which I'm showcasing in this post), the Berlin Wall, the Wailing Wall and most recently, the West Bank Wall. But the hardest (or maybe trickiest) walls to penetrate I've found have been those psychological partitions, one of them charmingly described by a friend of mine:

"When it comes to our emotions, men are effective at building walls,
but then we screw up by leaving the front door open."

Those walls we build in the windmills of our minds aren't exclusively constructed to keep people out though, they also function to keep us trapped within a certain mindset (think about the Berlin Wall.) These mental fortresses are built on the bricks of idle contentment, fear and self-doubt, and we become afraid of what lies outside the calm confines of our everyday lives. It's a wall that keeps us from getting to know our neighbors, our co-workers, our siblings, our lovers - ourselves. It discourages us from traveling, from following our dreams, from taking risks and from rising above the static. For me, I can honestly say that these types of walls (the ones I build around myself) are the most destructive and limiting - because most things worth doing are found just beyond my reach; just beyond those walls.

It's my hope that we continue to build bridges instead of walls, all the while helping each other discover those roads leading to richer, more fulfilling lives. I also hope you get to experience this amazing piece of historical architecture first hand and marvel at the way the Great Wall of China snakes across the landscape like a sleeping dragon.

Creative Destruction


Great Wall of China, PRC

Again, I am guilty. Some of you have been contacting me these past few weeks, concerned that I haven’t been writing. It humbles me that you’ve enjoyed these small windows into my life, and to you I must tip my hat.

My lack of frequent correspondence, I could argue, is attributed to my reverence for fully savoring my experiences these past few months… after all, indulging in the joys of eating phad thai in Bangkok or climbing the Great Wall in Beijing requires me to curb my internet addiction. But truthfully, I’m just lazy. I’ve had ample time to write, to pour my thoughts into a thick soup of wise and witty banter I’ve convinced myself you’ve become accustomed to reading word for word. (In my case, occasional brilliance and habitual delusion go hand in hand.) But I haven’t, and I’m sorry.

When my pen is forced, my experiences lose their beauty, their courage, their romance. I’ve been trying to purvey my stories in a methodical and linear manner, which takes the passion out of my woven words, so I’m going for a different style now - one that brings out the Hemmingway in me, the poetry of Whitman or the visual imagery of Rockwell.

I left the Forbidden City a few days ago for the Emerald one, which concludes the most amazing chapter of my life so far. Family obligations called me back, but it’s allowing me to gather all my experiences and formulate my next move. I feel as though I’m on the brink of something big, and for the first time ever, I am unafraid. This started as a year’s odyssey, but now I know it’s only the beginning of a life-long obsession. Life is the real adventure, and my posts will only get more interesting.

I’ll be writing from the fantastic coffee shop down my street in North Seattle. Come visit if you’re in town!

My love, my respect and adoration,
Riani