Keep the Democrats Coming

Super Tuesday started a lot earlier for me this election year and I had the great fortune of voting in Jakarta with the Democrats Abroad. While you all were lining up in stinky school gyms across the United States, we had a cocktail reception, media coverage, phone calls from Gen. Wesley Clark and Obama's sister Maya Soetoro-Ng at a swanky 5-star hotel.

Barack Obama's victory amongst our small but informed group of individuals tickled me, but there were other interesting things about Dem's Abroad. In particular was the schwag many Democrats left with - among them being this brilliantly marketed package that at first glance looks like a butter-packet. I thought I'd snap a quick photo and share it with you... enjoy!

A Muse's desire.

Fitting isn’t it? A year ago today I embarked on some crazy journey around the world, hoping I would be sated by months of nomadic existence. Apparently it wasn’t enough though, since I’m at 39'000 feet and headed to Singapore to seek my fortunes. It seems my life has once again spun on its ever-unpredictable axis – I hope to keep you updated this time. But for now, let me play catch up.

The Emerald City
I returned "home" to Seattle in late November, but initially found the city small and unimportant compared to the hob-nob of London, the bustle of Bangkok and the sheer size of Shanghai. Without a job or sense of adventure, I had to (not so successfully at times) change my attitude to better enjoy Seattle’s off-beat pulse. Although difficult at times, I’ll look back remembering these things:

  • Walking around Greenlake: This time with a 140 pound puppy that disliked both rollerbladers and guys with Mohawks. The lake was semi-frozen too, resulting in the comedic dance of ducks sliding across the ice.
  • Spending time with friends. This time involving intimate and elaborate dinners, dress-up Christmas parties and board-game nights which required crazy hats, good wine and fantastic company.
  • Seeing my sisters. This time, they’ve grown stronger and more resilient. Even while tackling their own daunting challenges, they built a foundation of love and unwavering support that gives me the courage to chase my (ridiculously crazy) dreams.
  • Theater. This time a slew of performances, from Arabian Nights (amazing) to The Breach (awful) I still enjoyed the elaborate concoction of costumes, the set design and the stirring of the senses.
  • Inspiring change in others. This time, that by-the-books Midwest bean-counter is giving me a run for my money. He’s traveling to Botswana and Tanzania next month while planning Christmas in the Philippines. Talk about inspiring people who then inspire you!

What about my old work?
Yes, I did visit my old workplace in the dark ominous Tower of Doom. The strange clinical smell and the harsh lighting added to the sense of despair that hung like the ghosts of lives unfulfilled. Coffee with an old colleague confirmed that Amazon still ran a totalitarian dictatorship built on slave labor. They still work 90 hour work-weeks while banging their heads against their cubicle walls - which begs the question; where is Amnesty International when you need them? Amazon Anonymous anyone?

What Now?
My year of travel was life changing - so much in fact, that my DNA has been permanently altered and I cannot bear conducting unproductive busy work everyday from 9-5 again. My resolution this year is to follow my heart, and I am unafraid… I’m moving to Jakarta to build my own empire, the details of which I’ll reveal as my ideas begin to take shape. But for now, please take this poem into consideration…. I hope you all find the courage and the faith in yourselves to have the audacity- to ask “Why the hell not?”

Slow Dance

Have you ever watched kids
On a merry go-round?

Or listen to the rain
Slapping on the ground?

Ever followed a butterfly’s erratic flight?
Or gazed at the sun into the fading night?

You better slow down.
Don’t dance too fast,

Time is short,
The music won’t last.

Do you run through each day
On the fly?

When you ask: How are you?
Do you hear the reply?

When the day is done,
Do you lie in your bed

With he next hundred chores
Running through your head?

You better slow down.
Don’t dance too fast,

Time is short,
The music won’t last.

Ever told your child,
We’ll do it tomorrow?

And in your haste,
Not see his sorrow?

Ever lost touch,
Let a good friendship die

Cause you never had time
To call and say “Hi”?

You better slow down.
Don’t dance too fast,

Time is short,
The music won’t last.

When you run so fast to get somewhere
You miss half the fun of getting there.

When you worry and hurry through your day,
It is like an unopened gift thrown away.

Life is not a race.
Do take it slower.

Hear the music
Before the song is over.

David. L. Weatherford.

Shuh-jaa wha?

While in college, I encountered a clique-like group of students that shared the same course load as I did. I envied their close-knit conversations and inside-jokes, and plotted to overthrow their elite republic. I didn't get the chance however, as one of the girls sneakily became a friend - and I cannot hate a Thai-American girl no matter how hard I try. In the end, we coexisted harmoniously through our college years and even keep in touch through e-mail, face book and even phone calls.

On member of the group, (a cynical and dry humored guy named Jason) ended up moving to a not-so-small city in northern China called Shijiazhuang, the Capital of Heibei Province. In our conversations about my world travels (Jason had urged me to quit my job and bolt) we managed to make plans for a trip to visit him...

Hence my magical journey to what I considered was the real China.

Jason with prayer ribbons in the background.

Shijiazhung is a two hour train ride northish of Beijing and isn't frequented by that many tourists or foreigners. I was the only "white" person in the train station and felt completely isolated, unable to communicate with anyone or effectively deal with the locals staring at me (maybe I was a fire-breathing dragon?). Once in Shijiazhuang, my mind froze in an all-consuming panic. I'm in a strange city, completely dependent on others to take care of me. If Jason isn't at the train station, I'll surely be dead in a Chinese ditch by the end of the week. Thankfully, Jason was at the station to retrieve me, sporting corduroy jeans, Steelers Jersey and a skateboard in hand. If he came with peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, that would have been picture perfect.

Having a local host changed my whole perspective, and having that little added sense of security allowed me to enjoy the nuances of real China. For example, did you know there is a HUGE Muslim population in Heibei province? My first night there, we ended up eating satay-style at a local Muslim joint - complete with spiced tea and a plateful of spicy lamb curry. YUM.

The Chef and I, enjoying the sweet smell of BBQ chicken.

I was also fortunate enough to meet and connect with some of Jason's friends, some of whom were Muslim as well. Annie (below) introduced me to a plethora of wonderful Chinese foods, the most important one being hong-shu: sweet potato roasted curbside and sold by grisly-looking women farmers. Over the course of my stay, I consumer multiple hong-shu's a day... Enough for Annie's mom to warn me not to lose my "girlish figure."

Annie and I at a halal restaurant

China on the most part, is a patchwork of poor rural areas mixed with the nouveau riche. The roads are dusty, the alleys are filthy and finding a clean bathroom is always a disappointing adventure. But there were moments, where the clouds would part, the smog would settle and everything looked colorful and charming. Below is a picture I snapped while driving through the city, it's just a roadside fruit stand - there are hundreds scattered about the city. But the fruit is always tasty, vibrant and sweet.. unlike the bristly farmers selling the goods.

Roadside fruit stand, cheap bananas!

While visiting with Jason, I was also lucky enough to be invited to a traditional Chinese dinner at one of the prestigious restaurants in town. There was mounds and mounds of food, all of which was delicious and mouthwatering (minus the piggy). I was sad at the amount of waste produced at the end of dinner - we had hardly touched anything... But trying to finish everything would only prompt the hostess to order more. Dinners are a sign of wealth,prosperity and status - not only in China but world wide. It's why Fugu is so popular in Japan, or Lobster in the United States. To my host's credit, she had everything packed up at the end of the night to bring home. At least the food would be eaten!

Crab, strawberry juice, mutton and vegetables... yum!


Tea and Temples

One of the activities I enjoyed the most in Shijiazhuang was frequenting the numerous tea houses. I fell in love with the dimly lit rooms that smelled slightly of stale tea and red earth, and I was fascinated by the rituals - people quietly pouring hot water in cyan-colored porcelain cups and sipping them delicately. I'd sit there in the sculpted hardwood chairs and listen to the friendly banter, the smoke from the cigarettes curling into white clouds on the ceiling. I began to understand why tea houses are so popular in Asian cultures. It's a place to kick back and relax, enjoy each other's company and drink great tea.

There was a great statue outside a temple, and
I thought I'd sit down with the guru for a splash of Cha.

During my stay, Jason and I frequented the tea houses, the fruit stands (I went through about 7 oranges a day) and the hole-in-the-wall alley-way eateries with colorful characters such as "Crazy Eyes" who had a large dragon tattooed on his chest. Although our evenings were usually eventful, I did enjoy the quite late-mornings reading in the sun room of the apartment. It allowed me a little quite time to read and drink my hot soya milk before we embarked on the day's urban adventures. One such adventure was to the temples a couple miles away by bus...

The Goddess of Mercy: The balcony on the third floor.

The most impressive part of the Temples was the Pavilion of Mercy, a tribute to the Goddess Of Mercy, a millipede of a woman three stories tall encased in decades of dust and dark shadows. The worshipers who came to her always spoke in an angry tone and without fail began to weep at the end of their conversations with her. Listening to their grievances, I couldn't help notice hearing the anguish in their voices, the despair, the anger and frustration.... And I don't speak a lick of Mandarin. I'm always fascinated by how much communication lays in the diction, the intonations and the body languages of people. I hope I apply those observations in my dealings with people who speak my language.

Here is the millipede lady in all her splendor. In the darkness, she's shrouded in mystery and leaves the mind in quiet contemplation...Impressive.
Did I mention I'm on the THIRD FLOOR?

Random Observations

Overall, I would say my trip to China was a good introduction to the world's largest country. I was able to experience various facets of the culture, even though I have a sneaking suspicion I didn't even scratch the surface. Here are a couple of observations I made in the few weeks that I experienced life as a (somewhat) local.

Bathrooms. The plumbing is usually squat toilets and lack of paper, which makes me reluctant to shake people's hands. While visiting Jack's house, I discovered he had not only a roman-style toilet (yay to the new Chinese entrepreneurs!) but a BATHTUB. The fact that it was yellow increased its attractiveness ten fold.

Here I am modeling their bathtub.

Prostitution. The availability of call girls from a logistics and distribution standpoint was quite impressive, they would give the Thai's a run for their money. There were KTV lounges everywhere (Karaoke) and massage parlors sporting masseuses with extra zip. Pink lights line the streets (think red lights) and the service is an accepted norm in society.


Colorful Locals. Jason has some great friends, people who were trying to carve out a stake for themselves in the new global economy. From Jack and Annie who are opening their 4th language school to the tea-house owner looking to sell his tea-pots online to the global market, China is changing. I only hope I get to watch and cheer from the sidelines as they grow and prosper.

One of Jason's friends and I, swapping roles for a second.

Burgeoning economy. Everywhere I went, I saw buildings rising, new businesses are selling their wares and a huge lower-middle class looking to spend their disposable income. Farmers are driving their first cars, people are "buying" property and cranes are defining the cityscape. I'm sad that I didn't get to see the old china, but it's interesting seeing things transform before your eyes, even if you are there for only a few weeks.

Looking out onto the street from one of the coffee shops.




Bunderful Shanghai (Part II)

When to comes to international landmarks, I'm sure certain buildings come to mind. Structures such as the Eiffel Tower in Paris evokes romantic emotions, Big Ben in London portrays the rise and fall of the British empire and even the Petronas towers in Kuala Lumpur serves to push Malaysia into the new millennium. But when it comes to emerging markets, Shanghai's Pearl Tower on the Bund most strikingly exemplifies the burgeoning developing-world economy. The tower looks like a futuristic roman candle, complete with revolving lights and tall concrete support beams. At night, the tower has a starring role in the Vegas-by-water light show that attracts locals and tourists alike to dine on the banks of the Bund. I've heard that people either hate or love the tower, and I myself give it two thumbs up. Come on. It's pink.


Although Shanghai was very overwhelming in its size, like any big city, you could venture to certain districts for personalized and intimate experiences. the French Concession is one such neighborhood, mostly noted for its wonderful architecture and sumptuous food.

Here I am going out for dinner!

Now, when it comes to traveling I do have some advice: find people to explore with. I was fortunate enough to have a great group of friends stationed all around the world, so finding a high school buddy "in the neighborhood" was pretty easy for me. For those of you traveling in different circles, stay at youth hostels and pair up with other adventurers for a fun time out. I truly believe that sharing experiences with others increases the richness of your travels. As a guideline, I usually try to hang out with three different people in a new city - since it gives me three different perspectives on the same space.

While in Shanghai, I was able to spend time with David Yang, a former JIS Dragon himself who currently lives in Hongkong. David took me to the "touristy" areas of the city, including some of the most popular temples and to the zigzag bridge.


David and I after a 7-year hiatus. He used to sneak my sister and I to a Chinese restaurant at the Mulia Hotel in Jakarta to eat during Ramadan. Bad Muslims!


Here's the famous Zig-Zag bridge, complete with its own Starbucks in the distance.

There's a lot of red used in traditional Chinese culture, from their traditional dress to the paper lanterns strung up on the roof lines of the city. I love their use of the color, as it brings vibrancy and warmth to the otherwise rigid surroundings. Gold is also a major color, as it represents wealth and prosperity.

Overall, I think what amazed me most about Shanghai is how globalization is affecting this Asian tiger. Gone are the days of rickshaws and push-bikes, which were replaced by Audi A4's and motorized bicycles. Traditional eateries are now hawking their wares along side global brands such as Mc Donalds and KFC, while the infiltration of Nike, Ermenegildo Zegna and Juicy Couture inspired the creation of local luxury brands such as Shanghai Tang.

As China continues to grow and prosper, I'll be interested to see its ever expanding influence on the world. Although they are investing heavily in hardware (infrastructure) it's their burgeoning community of entrepreneurs I'm more interested in. From what little I've seen, it's a billion people now free to seek their fortunes. Watch out!

Bunderful Shanghai (Part I)

As a self-proclaimed travel warrior, I wasn't worried about getting culture shock in China. Surely by now the abundant stamps in my passport and numerous currencies in my wallet would act like a shield against the physiological perils of Chinese cultural nuances... My diabolical plan was foiled though, as my super traveling powers were disabled by locally manufactured kryptonite (I mean come on, they produce everything.) So although I wholeheartedly endorse people to travel, I would advise caution to those of you that hyperventilate when the Canadians cook their bacon differently or when the Germans use a green-woman traffic light.

My expedition to the middle kingdom started in Shanghai (meaning above the sea), a bustling metropolis on the country's eastern seaboard. Once a sleepy fishing village, this economic powerhouse has surpassed Shenzhen and Guangzhou as China's crown jewel. Shamefully, I didn't know much about the city before my trip, hell I couldn't even place Shanghai on a map! Which means there's a high probability you can't either... hence the map below. (My apologies to those of you who majored in Sino-cartography or grew up flying to Hongkong on the weekends, you probably know Chinese geography like I know the contents of my purse).

World's largest country by population and Doufu consumption.

Since I flew into Shanghai during the early morning hours, I was able to view the city from the skies. It was an endless patchwork of old communist housing, red-brick roofs and modern apartment buildings, connected by long meandering rivers of concrete. Even from the air, Shanghai looked like a series of contradictions, a clash of civilizations evolving so quickly that it manifested itself on the physical landscape.

This was evident once we touched down, as new-world Chinese roads met old-world Chinese traffic, complete with multiple collisions and angry red-faced mainlanders. A three wheeled tractor-car (is the only way I could describe it) had flipped over, spilling its contents across all four lanes of traffic. I haven't seen many trucks dump their loads before, but seeing the tons of Doufu strewn across the road was hilarious. My driver muttered something under his breath, and I could imagine him saying "great, you hold up traffic AND spoiled dinner."

Once in Pudong, I was overwhelmed by the density of high rises and sky scrapers - Shanghai made downtown Singapore look like American farmland in the 1940's (think Grapes of Wrath). The city was littered with a flock of cranes, working in unison to expand the already crowded horizon with dozens of additional mega structures. I watched them stack steel girders like Lego blocks, raise pillars and clear debris... Wow, I thought, they wanted these buildings built yesterday.

After settling into the hotel, I made plans for a sumptuous dinner on The Bund. Situated on the banks of the Huangpu River, the historically international area houses some of the best views and finest dining in all of Shanghai. I've included a excerpt about the origins of The Bund below, courtesy of Wikipedia (picture included).
The word "Bund" comes from the Urdu word band, meaning an embankment, levee or dam. "Bund" is pronounced to rhyme with "fund". The term was brought to India (where it came to be pronounced as "bund") by either the Mughals in at the beginning of the 16th century. There are many "bands" to be found in Baghdad, even today. There are numerous sites in India, China, and Japan which are called "bunds". However, "The Bund" as a proper noun almost invariably refers to this stretch of embanked riverfront in Shanghai.
The Bund was home to many international banks and embassies.

As night fell and the temperature dropped, I found myself marveling at the neon-lights lining the city like Vegas during Christmas. I had inhabited the city for less than 12 hours and already felt transformed by its size, its endless identical streets and the breakneck speed at which it was expanding. The uniqueness of Shanghai was most poetically captured by a traditional Chinese junk I saw traveling down the length of the Bund - carrying a 150 foot digital billboard.


I went to bed that night with my head spinning, overwhelmed by experiencing the familiar coupled with the unexpected... which is what traveling is all about. What else did Shanghai have to offer? Check out Part II of "Bunderful Shanghai" to follow next week!



And after all, you're my wonder wall...

"This man, with lime and rough-cast, doth present
Wall, that vile Wall which did these lovers sunder;
and through Wall's chink, poor souls, they are content
To whisper, at the which let no man wonder."

A Midsummer Night's Dream, W. Shakespeare

Looking out over the Northern Pass, you can see the hills fold into each other before disappearing into the late-afternoon mist. Coupled with the setting sun and the bursts of crimson and burnt-orange foliage, you can't help but notice the subtle progression of the seasons. The autumn wind picks up, whips my hair around my face and coaxes an involuntary shiver that travels up the base of my spine. I pull my hood up, shove my hands in my pockets and avoid touching the cold, cracked stone - which after a thousand years still seems impenetrable, formidable even.

Standing by a gatehouse on the wall, I could imagine the battalions of imperial guards in their heavy armor, guarding the vast empire against the Mongol hoards... But as magnificent as Chángchéng is (translated is simply long wall), it's no match for today's invasion of Japanese tourists, armed with their matching tour-group hats and Canon digital SLR's. Welcome to the Great Wall of China, complete with its own Starbucks, naturally.

According to the dictionary, a wall is "an architectural partition with a height and length greater than its thickness; used to divide or enclose an area or to support another structure." Great examples of historically important walls include The Great Wall of China (which I'm showcasing in this post), the Berlin Wall, the Wailing Wall and most recently, the West Bank Wall. But the hardest (or maybe trickiest) walls to penetrate I've found have been those psychological partitions, one of them charmingly described by a friend of mine:

"When it comes to our emotions, men are effective at building walls,
but then we screw up by leaving the front door open."

Those walls we build in the windmills of our minds aren't exclusively constructed to keep people out though, they also function to keep us trapped within a certain mindset (think about the Berlin Wall.) These mental fortresses are built on the bricks of idle contentment, fear and self-doubt, and we become afraid of what lies outside the calm confines of our everyday lives. It's a wall that keeps us from getting to know our neighbors, our co-workers, our siblings, our lovers - ourselves. It discourages us from traveling, from following our dreams, from taking risks and from rising above the static. For me, I can honestly say that these types of walls (the ones I build around myself) are the most destructive and limiting - because most things worth doing are found just beyond my reach; just beyond those walls.

It's my hope that we continue to build bridges instead of walls, all the while helping each other discover those roads leading to richer, more fulfilling lives. I also hope you get to experience this amazing piece of historical architecture first hand and marvel at the way the Great Wall of China snakes across the landscape like a sleeping dragon.

Creative Destruction


Great Wall of China, PRC

Again, I am guilty. Some of you have been contacting me these past few weeks, concerned that I haven’t been writing. It humbles me that you’ve enjoyed these small windows into my life, and to you I must tip my hat.

My lack of frequent correspondence, I could argue, is attributed to my reverence for fully savoring my experiences these past few months… after all, indulging in the joys of eating phad thai in Bangkok or climbing the Great Wall in Beijing requires me to curb my internet addiction. But truthfully, I’m just lazy. I’ve had ample time to write, to pour my thoughts into a thick soup of wise and witty banter I’ve convinced myself you’ve become accustomed to reading word for word. (In my case, occasional brilliance and habitual delusion go hand in hand.) But I haven’t, and I’m sorry.

When my pen is forced, my experiences lose their beauty, their courage, their romance. I’ve been trying to purvey my stories in a methodical and linear manner, which takes the passion out of my woven words, so I’m going for a different style now - one that brings out the Hemmingway in me, the poetry of Whitman or the visual imagery of Rockwell.

I left the Forbidden City a few days ago for the Emerald one, which concludes the most amazing chapter of my life so far. Family obligations called me back, but it’s allowing me to gather all my experiences and formulate my next move. I feel as though I’m on the brink of something big, and for the first time ever, I am unafraid. This started as a year’s odyssey, but now I know it’s only the beginning of a life-long obsession. Life is the real adventure, and my posts will only get more interesting.

I’ll be writing from the fantastic coffee shop down my street in North Seattle. Come visit if you’re in town!

My love, my respect and adoration,
Riani