The girl who sees Pumas

Have you ever met magical people? Ones that could charm the spines off a cactus or have a whole Russian gulag singing Kumbaya? I seem to collect them, like pieces of eight that I place into my treasure chest, hopefully to be revisited at a later date (arrrrrg matey!). These navigators of high seas, these guiding stars in darkness have helped me chart my path and find the strength to dive into the deep end... Although we often come from different countries, backgrounds and travel in different circles, I always have faith we'll see each other again.

One such unicorn of a human-being is Camilla, otherwise known in Patagonia as the special girl that sees pumas*, and she's even more of a crazy breed than I am. Try half Spanish and half Filipino but growing up in Saudi Arabia for size! Having met in London, we've been keeping in touch via e-mail, facebook and *gasp* even phone calls. Camilla was "in the neighborhood" (Thailand) and we decided to meet up in Kuala Lumpur.

*Camilla went to Patagonia last year and hung out at a park that is famous for its pumas. Ironically, no one hardly sees the pumas - her guide had only seen them a handful of times in the years that he's worked there. Camilla saw them 3 of the 5 days she was there, and the locals nicknamed her the lucky little girl that sees pumas.

Camilla and I having roti cenai and teh tarik at a little stall near our hotel.

I had imagined the two of us rendezvousing for a few days of female frolicking, but to my delight, our party of two became a party of four super-women running around causing a ruckus! The Perryer sisters came from England for a two-week vacation and joined us for 4 days of continuous binge-eating and tea drinking... These platinum blonde bombshells are special in their own right, but they also have stardust: they RANDOMLY met my twin sister on the beach in Hawaii last year, after having met me in Asia. Really.

Here are a couple of great photos outlining the wonderful adventures we had:

Eating Chicken Satay poolside at the Mandarin Oriental. We ended up having chicken satay EVERY DAY while sunning ourselves like Malaysian sun bears.


One afternoon, I decided to take the girls to Pasar Seni - the market where Gucci is guci and Chanel is Channel (if you catch my drift). I insisted that they bring their umbrellas even though it was blue skies and sunny when we left, and it's a good thing they did. After soya drinks and munching on fruits we heard a thunderous noise, and the girls asked "what's that?" It was rain coming down in thick sheets, drenching everyone around us. Muhahhahahah! Up went the umbrellas, and we were unscathed by the rain. The photos of us at the market are some of my faves, because they really capture the warmth, the love and sheer thrill we had from being around each other.

Milla and I enjoying the break from the hot weather.


Amanda and Michelle, my two English roses.

While waiting for the rain to stop, I took the girls for some yummy Chinese jelly - it's supposed to be really good for your skin. Imagine the shock of the local shop keepers, two blondes and two brunettes coming in and one of them ordering in (broken) Mandarin. Michelle and Amanda scarfed it down, but poor Camilla hates jiggyly things. I was more than happy to eat her share.

The Perryer's enjoying themselves!

I consider myself a traveler, which is different than a tourist in multiple ways. I know the best spots to eat, the best places to visit, the coolest people to hang out with... And, the best bathroom in town, which, in case you were wondering, is the Moroccan style bathroom in Star Hill. Check it out when you're in KL. (By the way, the big wheel in the middle is spun to pump the water to wash your hands... cool huh?)

Starhill bathroom. We hung out for a half hour in there.

In the end, the girls and I enjoyed sitting around drinking tea for hours - chatting constantly about our lives, our ambitions, our hopes for the future. We ate on average 5 to 6 meals a day and took 2.3 hours to get ready in the afternoons for our evenings out. We laughed, we joked, we built strong bonds, and I can't wait to see them again.

In a world so fast-paced, cut-throat and insincere, it's nice knowing you have friends that have your back... And would fly half way across the world to see you.

Michelle: You are a sweet amazing person. Finish school and we'll see you in KL.
Amanda: I'm so glad you met Danielle. That chance encounter gave us another shot at being friends.
Camilla: Puma girl... I'll see you in the Maldives!

Happy Chocolate Easter

OOTO: Out Of The Office


One thing I love about working here in Jakarta is my ability to leave the office. I remember plenty a summer day in Seattle, longingly looking out the window from my desk.. counting down the hours until I could be outside. I thankfully don't have that problem here in Jakarta. I came to Payon, a great Indonesian restaurant in Kemang for lunch this afternoon and didn't leave. It's 8:10pm and I've been hanging out here all day, working on projects and coming up with templates for some reports.

I sit way in the back of the compound, on pillows at a table low to the ground... The thatched roof is held up by carved wooden columns, and the outdoor dining room is lit by lanterns that look 100 years old. There is a slight breeze which catches the scent of garlic, cinnamon and spices being used in the kitchen. If I look out into the courtyard, the lush trees are back-lit with twinkling lights. Payon looks like a Balinese villa, only tucked away in the busy habub that is Jakarta.

For those of you in Jakarta, I'm usually here on Sunday afternoons... Reading, writing and chatting with friends over a strong cup of Chai Jahe. Come stop by!

Fish at the Four Seasons

I currently have to leave Indonesia every 30 days, since I'm on a tourist Visa... So this "visa run" I decided to visiting the Kingdom of Thailand, specifically the original City of Angels (Bangkok).

Since I was there over the weekend, I was fortunate enough to be around for my favorite brunch - an event so obnoxiously extravagant I had to document it. This gentleman here is in waders, in the pond serving caviar from a platform also in the water. There are Koi that swim around him, making the whole experience even more spectacular.

So...If you're in Bangkok, indulge yourself and go to brunch... Which occurs every Sunday from 12:30pm to 3pm at the Four Seasons Hotel on Rajadamri Rd. Be sure to enjoy the live jazz, the lush surroundings and sample the dishes available from around the world!

Keep the Democrats Coming

Super Tuesday started a lot earlier for me this election year and I had the great fortune of voting in Jakarta with the Democrats Abroad. While you all were lining up in stinky school gyms across the United States, we had a cocktail reception, media coverage, phone calls from Gen. Wesley Clark and Obama's sister Maya Soetoro-Ng at a swanky 5-star hotel.

Barack Obama's victory amongst our small but informed group of individuals tickled me, but there were other interesting things about Dem's Abroad. In particular was the schwag many Democrats left with - among them being this brilliantly marketed package that at first glance looks like a butter-packet. I thought I'd snap a quick photo and share it with you... enjoy!

A Muse's desire.

Fitting isn’t it? A year ago today I embarked on some crazy journey around the world, hoping I would be sated by months of nomadic existence. Apparently it wasn’t enough though, since I’m at 39'000 feet and headed to Singapore to seek my fortunes. It seems my life has once again spun on its ever-unpredictable axis – I hope to keep you updated this time. But for now, let me play catch up.

The Emerald City
I returned "home" to Seattle in late November, but initially found the city small and unimportant compared to the hob-nob of London, the bustle of Bangkok and the sheer size of Shanghai. Without a job or sense of adventure, I had to (not so successfully at times) change my attitude to better enjoy Seattle’s off-beat pulse. Although difficult at times, I’ll look back remembering these things:

  • Walking around Greenlake: This time with a 140 pound puppy that disliked both rollerbladers and guys with Mohawks. The lake was semi-frozen too, resulting in the comedic dance of ducks sliding across the ice.
  • Spending time with friends. This time involving intimate and elaborate dinners, dress-up Christmas parties and board-game nights which required crazy hats, good wine and fantastic company.
  • Seeing my sisters. This time, they’ve grown stronger and more resilient. Even while tackling their own daunting challenges, they built a foundation of love and unwavering support that gives me the courage to chase my (ridiculously crazy) dreams.
  • Theater. This time a slew of performances, from Arabian Nights (amazing) to The Breach (awful) I still enjoyed the elaborate concoction of costumes, the set design and the stirring of the senses.
  • Inspiring change in others. This time, that by-the-books Midwest bean-counter is giving me a run for my money. He’s traveling to Botswana and Tanzania next month while planning Christmas in the Philippines. Talk about inspiring people who then inspire you!

What about my old work?
Yes, I did visit my old workplace in the dark ominous Tower of Doom. The strange clinical smell and the harsh lighting added to the sense of despair that hung like the ghosts of lives unfulfilled. Coffee with an old colleague confirmed that Amazon still ran a totalitarian dictatorship built on slave labor. They still work 90 hour work-weeks while banging their heads against their cubicle walls - which begs the question; where is Amnesty International when you need them? Amazon Anonymous anyone?

What Now?
My year of travel was life changing - so much in fact, that my DNA has been permanently altered and I cannot bear conducting unproductive busy work everyday from 9-5 again. My resolution this year is to follow my heart, and I am unafraid… I’m moving to Jakarta to build my own empire, the details of which I’ll reveal as my ideas begin to take shape. But for now, please take this poem into consideration…. I hope you all find the courage and the faith in yourselves to have the audacity- to ask “Why the hell not?”

Slow Dance

Have you ever watched kids
On a merry go-round?

Or listen to the rain
Slapping on the ground?

Ever followed a butterfly’s erratic flight?
Or gazed at the sun into the fading night?

You better slow down.
Don’t dance too fast,

Time is short,
The music won’t last.

Do you run through each day
On the fly?

When you ask: How are you?
Do you hear the reply?

When the day is done,
Do you lie in your bed

With he next hundred chores
Running through your head?

You better slow down.
Don’t dance too fast,

Time is short,
The music won’t last.

Ever told your child,
We’ll do it tomorrow?

And in your haste,
Not see his sorrow?

Ever lost touch,
Let a good friendship die

Cause you never had time
To call and say “Hi”?

You better slow down.
Don’t dance too fast,

Time is short,
The music won’t last.

When you run so fast to get somewhere
You miss half the fun of getting there.

When you worry and hurry through your day,
It is like an unopened gift thrown away.

Life is not a race.
Do take it slower.

Hear the music
Before the song is over.

David. L. Weatherford.

Shuh-jaa wha?

While in college, I encountered a clique-like group of students that shared the same course load as I did. I envied their close-knit conversations and inside-jokes, and plotted to overthrow their elite republic. I didn't get the chance however, as one of the girls sneakily became a friend - and I cannot hate a Thai-American girl no matter how hard I try. In the end, we coexisted harmoniously through our college years and even keep in touch through e-mail, face book and even phone calls.

On member of the group, (a cynical and dry humored guy named Jason) ended up moving to a not-so-small city in northern China called Shijiazhuang, the Capital of Heibei Province. In our conversations about my world travels (Jason had urged me to quit my job and bolt) we managed to make plans for a trip to visit him...

Hence my magical journey to what I considered was the real China.

Jason with prayer ribbons in the background.

Shijiazhung is a two hour train ride northish of Beijing and isn't frequented by that many tourists or foreigners. I was the only "white" person in the train station and felt completely isolated, unable to communicate with anyone or effectively deal with the locals staring at me (maybe I was a fire-breathing dragon?). Once in Shijiazhuang, my mind froze in an all-consuming panic. I'm in a strange city, completely dependent on others to take care of me. If Jason isn't at the train station, I'll surely be dead in a Chinese ditch by the end of the week. Thankfully, Jason was at the station to retrieve me, sporting corduroy jeans, Steelers Jersey and a skateboard in hand. If he came with peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, that would have been picture perfect.

Having a local host changed my whole perspective, and having that little added sense of security allowed me to enjoy the nuances of real China. For example, did you know there is a HUGE Muslim population in Heibei province? My first night there, we ended up eating satay-style at a local Muslim joint - complete with spiced tea and a plateful of spicy lamb curry. YUM.

The Chef and I, enjoying the sweet smell of BBQ chicken.

I was also fortunate enough to meet and connect with some of Jason's friends, some of whom were Muslim as well. Annie (below) introduced me to a plethora of wonderful Chinese foods, the most important one being hong-shu: sweet potato roasted curbside and sold by grisly-looking women farmers. Over the course of my stay, I consumer multiple hong-shu's a day... Enough for Annie's mom to warn me not to lose my "girlish figure."

Annie and I at a halal restaurant

China on the most part, is a patchwork of poor rural areas mixed with the nouveau riche. The roads are dusty, the alleys are filthy and finding a clean bathroom is always a disappointing adventure. But there were moments, where the clouds would part, the smog would settle and everything looked colorful and charming. Below is a picture I snapped while driving through the city, it's just a roadside fruit stand - there are hundreds scattered about the city. But the fruit is always tasty, vibrant and sweet.. unlike the bristly farmers selling the goods.

Roadside fruit stand, cheap bananas!

While visiting with Jason, I was also lucky enough to be invited to a traditional Chinese dinner at one of the prestigious restaurants in town. There was mounds and mounds of food, all of which was delicious and mouthwatering (minus the piggy). I was sad at the amount of waste produced at the end of dinner - we had hardly touched anything... But trying to finish everything would only prompt the hostess to order more. Dinners are a sign of wealth,prosperity and status - not only in China but world wide. It's why Fugu is so popular in Japan, or Lobster in the United States. To my host's credit, she had everything packed up at the end of the night to bring home. At least the food would be eaten!

Crab, strawberry juice, mutton and vegetables... yum!


Tea and Temples

One of the activities I enjoyed the most in Shijiazhuang was frequenting the numerous tea houses. I fell in love with the dimly lit rooms that smelled slightly of stale tea and red earth, and I was fascinated by the rituals - people quietly pouring hot water in cyan-colored porcelain cups and sipping them delicately. I'd sit there in the sculpted hardwood chairs and listen to the friendly banter, the smoke from the cigarettes curling into white clouds on the ceiling. I began to understand why tea houses are so popular in Asian cultures. It's a place to kick back and relax, enjoy each other's company and drink great tea.

There was a great statue outside a temple, and
I thought I'd sit down with the guru for a splash of Cha.

During my stay, Jason and I frequented the tea houses, the fruit stands (I went through about 7 oranges a day) and the hole-in-the-wall alley-way eateries with colorful characters such as "Crazy Eyes" who had a large dragon tattooed on his chest. Although our evenings were usually eventful, I did enjoy the quite late-mornings reading in the sun room of the apartment. It allowed me a little quite time to read and drink my hot soya milk before we embarked on the day's urban adventures. One such adventure was to the temples a couple miles away by bus...

The Goddess of Mercy: The balcony on the third floor.

The most impressive part of the Temples was the Pavilion of Mercy, a tribute to the Goddess Of Mercy, a millipede of a woman three stories tall encased in decades of dust and dark shadows. The worshipers who came to her always spoke in an angry tone and without fail began to weep at the end of their conversations with her. Listening to their grievances, I couldn't help notice hearing the anguish in their voices, the despair, the anger and frustration.... And I don't speak a lick of Mandarin. I'm always fascinated by how much communication lays in the diction, the intonations and the body languages of people. I hope I apply those observations in my dealings with people who speak my language.

Here is the millipede lady in all her splendor. In the darkness, she's shrouded in mystery and leaves the mind in quiet contemplation...Impressive.
Did I mention I'm on the THIRD FLOOR?

Random Observations

Overall, I would say my trip to China was a good introduction to the world's largest country. I was able to experience various facets of the culture, even though I have a sneaking suspicion I didn't even scratch the surface. Here are a couple of observations I made in the few weeks that I experienced life as a (somewhat) local.

Bathrooms. The plumbing is usually squat toilets and lack of paper, which makes me reluctant to shake people's hands. While visiting Jack's house, I discovered he had not only a roman-style toilet (yay to the new Chinese entrepreneurs!) but a BATHTUB. The fact that it was yellow increased its attractiveness ten fold.

Here I am modeling their bathtub.

Prostitution. The availability of call girls from a logistics and distribution standpoint was quite impressive, they would give the Thai's a run for their money. There were KTV lounges everywhere (Karaoke) and massage parlors sporting masseuses with extra zip. Pink lights line the streets (think red lights) and the service is an accepted norm in society.


Colorful Locals. Jason has some great friends, people who were trying to carve out a stake for themselves in the new global economy. From Jack and Annie who are opening their 4th language school to the tea-house owner looking to sell his tea-pots online to the global market, China is changing. I only hope I get to watch and cheer from the sidelines as they grow and prosper.

One of Jason's friends and I, swapping roles for a second.

Burgeoning economy. Everywhere I went, I saw buildings rising, new businesses are selling their wares and a huge lower-middle class looking to spend their disposable income. Farmers are driving their first cars, people are "buying" property and cranes are defining the cityscape. I'm sad that I didn't get to see the old china, but it's interesting seeing things transform before your eyes, even if you are there for only a few weeks.

Looking out onto the street from one of the coffee shops.

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